Fender Dual Professional - Custom

Tuesday, November 23, 2010



 Fender Dual Professional (Custom Shop)

Schematic/Layout:


 Model/Circuit Number:
Years of Production: 1994 - 1997
Era:
Configuration: Combo
Controls: Black, forward facing w/ white screened labels, controls numbered 1-10
Knobs: Cream Barrel
Faceplate

    * Front: In, In, Dwell, Mix, Tone - Channel A/B Sw, Fat Sw A, Fat Sw B, Vol A, Vol B, Treb, Bass, Mid - Speed, Intensity - Pilot Lamp
    * Rear:

Cabinet

    * Dimensions: 19.87'' x 26.15'' x 10.37''
    * Hardware: Medium Chassis Straps 4 5/8'', 16'' Tilt-Back Legs
    * Handle: Brown Plastic
    * Feet: Glides
    * Corners: Corner Protectors


Covering Material

    * Tolex/Tweed: Smooth Blonde Tolex
    * Grill Cloth: Oxblood Grill Cloth

Logo: Grill mounted, flat, chrome & black script
Weight: 76 lbs.
Speaker

    * Size: 2 x 12
    * Impedance: 4 ohms
    * Model: Celestion Vintage 30(For more info, check out the Jensen Replacement Speakers)

Effects: Reverb, Tremolo
~Watts: 100 watts
Tubes

    * Pre amp: 5 x 12AX7
    * Power: 4 x 6L6

Bias: Fixed with bias adjustment pot
Rectifier: Solid State
READ MORE - Fender Dual Professional - Custom

Peavey Classic 30

READ MORE - Peavey Classic 30

Fender Champ AA-764 Schematics







READ MORE - Fender Champ AA-764 Schematics

Pickup Color Codes

READ MORE - Pickup Color Codes

Fender Telecaster wiring

READ MORE - Fender Telecaster wiring

Boss CS-2 Compression Sustainer pedal

Monday, November 22, 2010

The Boss CS-2 Compression Sustainer effect was sold from December 1981 to June 1986. The pedal compresses high-input level signals while boosting low-input level signals, producing a smooth and long sustain without degrading the quality of the original guitar sound.

Boss CS-2 Compression Sustainer guitar pedal schematic diagram

  • Controls: Level, Attack, Sustain
  • Connectors: Input, Output, AC Adaptor
  • Input Impedance: 1MΩ (FET input)
  • Output Load Impedance: over 10kΩ
  • Compression Range: 38dB
  • Maximum Input Level: -10dBm at 1kHz
  • Maximum Output Level: -10dBm
  • Equivalent Input Noise: -110dBm (IHF-A)
  • Recommended AC Adaptor: ACA Series
  • Current Draw: 4mA (DC 9V)
  • Dimensions: 70(W) x 55(H) x 125(D)mm
  • Weight: 400g
ICs, transistors and diodes used in the Boss CS-2 pedal:
  • IC1: BA662A (VCA - Voltage Controlled Amplifier IC)
  • Q1, Q2, Q3: 2SK30ATM-Y (N-channel JFET transistors)
  • Q4, Q5, Q6: 2SC732TM-GR (NPN silicon transistors)
  • Q7-Q11: 2SC1815-BL (NPN silicon transistors)
  • D1: S5500G (400V/1A rectifier diode)
  • D2-D6: 1S2473 (switching diodes)
  • D7: RD5.1EB3 (5.1V Zener diode)
  • LED: SLP135B (red LED)

Boss CS-2 Compression Sustainer circuit board - component side
READ MORE - Boss CS-2 Compression Sustainer pedal

How to Read a Schematic

Electronic circuits are presented in schematic form. A schematic is really a map showing the path the current takes through the various componenets. Each component is represented by a symbol, usually with either a label or a value (or both). The arangement of the components on paper is chosen to make the function of the circuit clear, and usually only vaguely resembles the actual construction of the device. The current path is shown with lines, again drawn for maximum clarity, with little concern for the length or position of the real wires.

Here are the most common symbols.



There are some general conventions that apply to all schematics.
The layout of a schematic is designed to show the function, usually with signal progressing from left to right. The actual layout of the circuit will be quite different.
All points on a line are electrically identical. This includes all branches of a line. When we discuss the properties of circuits, we will assume the wires are perfect conductors, with no resistence or propagation delays of any kind. In fact, when we talk about real wire, we will make drawings the show ideal wire with components connected illustrating various effects.


This symbol is ground. All ground points in the schematic are connected together. Furthermore, these points represent places in the circuit that are at 0 volts for reference in measurements. Often the ground includes the metal chasis of a device, but not always.
Labels. Each component should have a label, and there is a standard set of names. For instance, a resistor is labeled R, and this circuit has 7 of them. Presumably there is a table somewhere that tells what the values are. There is only one capacitor; instead of calling it C1, I just listed its value.



schematic for a simple gadget.

The example circuit
The gizmo at the left of figure 1 represents a phone jack. The label implies a guitar will be connected here. You have to understand that "signal" is not the same as "current". The current is the flow of electrons, the signal is the flow of information. The current is going every which way in this circuit, alternating directions in fact. The signal is supposed to come from the guitar and wind up at the speaker on the far right. The route is complex, with each component working with others to modify the signal in some manner. (If your get nothing out of this essay but the fact that it is the combination of components that modifies the signal, you are ahead of the game.) Let's work our way through :
The symbols at Guitar in represent the parts of a quarter inch jack. Notice that part of the jack is connected to ground (This is the part that connects to the outer shield of the cable). Remember that means it is actually connected to all parts of the circuit with the ground symbol. This is the path the return current takes, in essence flowing back to the guitar. The part of the current we consider the signal flows from the tip of the plug into the upper part of the schematic.



Each zig zag line represents a resistor. This is a simple device that has a desired resistance. These serve to control the proportion of current or signal that follows each branch of a circuit. Resister 1 establishes the input impedance, or the load that this device shows to the guitar.


Two lines interrupting the circuit line represent a capacitor. Most of the time the feature of acapacitor we are most interested in is the ability to block low frequency signals. In this case, we want to keep any constant voltage (DC) from the guitar away from the active components, and any DC the active components may have away from the guitar. The actual frequency that will be blocked depends on the values of R2 and R1. (Note: values for capacitors are given in microfarads. The proper symbol for this is the greek letter mu and an f. many programs don't proprery display this, turning the mu into an m. which strictly speaking would be "milifarads", however, microfarads is the usual intention.)


The trangle represents a rather complicated integrated circuit called an operational amplifier. They are complicated to design and make, but pretty simple to use. The signal is connected to one of the two inputs, and appears at the output. A connection from the output back to the inverting input (with the minus sign) controls the amout of gain the op amp will give us. This kind of connection is called feedback. Simply connecting the output to the inverting input sets the gain at unity- no change in the signal level. The purpose of the op amp in this circuit is to reduce the amount of current the guitar must supply


The resistor with an arrow in the middle is a variable resistor or potentiometer. This is the thing that most control knobs are atttached to. If you conceive of the arrow as moving up and down across the resistance, you can visualize a varying proportion of the current being drawn off, or the voltage at the arrow changing. The configuration shown is a typical volume control.


Adding resistors to the feedback of an opamp gives gains other than unity. In this case, the ratio of R4 to R5 sets the gain. U2 provides the muscle in this circuit, providing power to drive the speaker. The last resistor, R7, protects the speaker from too much current. It also protects the op amp, which may be cooked if it is asked to provide too much.
To keep the power supply connections distinct from the signal connections, I have used the solid arrows to indicate power busses (a buss is a wire or trace that connects to several places in a circuit.). All of the upward pointing arrows are connedted together, and all of the downward pointing arrows are connected. In complex circuits you will see a lot of this trick, often with numbered or lettered connections.
READ MORE - How to Read a Schematic

Fuzzy Firebottle Guitar Distortion



Introduction

I was researching the web for electric guitar distortion effects when I came across some interesting articles on vacuum tube preamps by John Simonton on the PAiA.com site. Simonton discusses the advantages of vacuum tube preamps and running tubes in a "starved" mode for intentional distortion. Paia sells a device called the Stack-In-A-Box (see schematic) that was designed by Craig Anderton and John Simonton. The Stack-In-A-Box is designed to sound like a distorting tube power amplifier. I was intrigued by the idea of a genuine tube distortion sound and decided to use the heart of the Anderton/Simonton tube circuit as the basis for this guitar distortion pedal project.
Normally, a 12AX7 tube is run with 100-200V on the tubes plate terminals for clean amplification, lowering the plate voltage to 30V starves the tube of the regular flow of electrons and causes the tube to readily distort. Tube distortion produces pleasant sounding even harmonics, contrast that with the scratchy odd-harmonic distortion (often called crunch) that comes from transistor/diode distortion circuits. Tube distortion tends to make more of a howling electronic sound that is commonly heard in late 1960s / early 1970s rock-n-roll recordings. A good example of the tube distortion sound is Eric Clapton with Cream playing "Sunshine of Your Love". Producing tube distortion in a starved tube circuit instead of an overdriven tube guitar amp has the advantage of making good tone at much lower volume levels.
A transistor-based preamp stage was chosen so that a high voltage power supply would not be required. This makes the circuit much easier to build into a pedal format. However, this choice comes with a sacrifice in usability. The transistor's input gain must be precisely set for a good sound. An all-tube signal path would be preferable, a standard 12AX7 Fender-style tube preamp stage would make a good substitute. A common 12AV6 tube would also be a good choice for this stage since it is essentially 1/2 of a 12AX7, ignoring the extra diode connections. With a tube front-end, the clipping indicator circuitry could also be eliminated.
This pedal is ideal for those who like to tweak a lot of knobs. It has an input gain control, individual tube section drive controls, a clean/distort mix control, a high cut switch and an output level control. A wide variety of distortion sounds can be created by adjusting the controls. The circuit has produced excellent sounds with both Fender single-coil and Gibson humbucker pickup guitars. Unlike many distortion pedals, the Fuzzy Firebottle can mix the clean signal with the distortion signal, this produces a much fatter sound with more dynamic range and tonal variety.

Theory

Power is supplied to the device from a 12VDC wall-wart transformer supply. Be sure that the wall-wart really produces 12VDC, many of these devices only produce their rated voltage at a given load current. A LM7812 voltage regulator (with a heat sink) may be used between a 14-18VDC unregulated supply and the distortion circuit. The +12VDC supply is initially filtered with a 1000uF capacitor, it is further filtered to the +12Vf1 and +12Vf2 supplies through two more R/C lowpass sections.
The +30VDC tube plate supply voltage is produced by an LMC555 CMOS timer chip set to generate square waves. The square waves are fed to a voltage tripler circuit which produces around 30VDC. The tripler uses 1N5818 Schottky diodes instead of regular silicon diodes to produce the full 30V. The +30V supply is filtered through the 1K and 470uF RC lowpass filter before being sent to the 12AX7 plate circuits (B+). The tube filament supply is provided directly from the +12VDC supply line.
The guitar audio signal is fed to the 2N3906 amplifier stage via a 100K input gain potentiometer. The 2N3906 bias is set to a fixed (class A) level by the 20K trimmer potentiometer. The 27 ohm emitter resistor provides negative feedback to limit the maximum gain for the 2N3906 amplifier stage. The output of the 2N3906 amplifier produces the clean signal for the mixer and the input drive to the first of the 12AX7 triode sections.
The clean signal is sent to the LM311 + input in the clipping circuit. The LM311 - input is set to a fixed 6.9VDC level. When the 2N3906 emitter signal goes above 6.9VDC with large input signals, the LM311 output signal switches from low to high. This is fed through the 100nF capacitor to the input of the LMC555 pulse stretcher circuit (one shot). On the return from high to low, the pulse stretcher triggers and the the amber LED blinks on for a few tens of milliseconds to indicate clipping.
The clean audio signal is sent to the grid of the first 12AX7 section through the 100K drive control. If the drive control is set high, the signal on the first 12AX7 plate is distorted. The plate signal from the first 12AX7 section is fed to the second drive control via a 50nF DC blocking capacitor. The signal on the second 12AX7 plate is even more distorted. The distorted signal from the second 12AX7 plate is sent through a 50nF DC blocking capacitor and fed to the Mix control.
The High Cut switch optionally puts a 68K/330pF or 68K/1nF RC filter to reduce the high frequency harmonics. The center tap of the Mix control contains a mix of the clean and distorted signals. This is sent to the Output Level control and switched to the Output jack via the foot switch and through the 100K/47K attenuator.

Construction

The circuit was built in a 3"x4"x5" aluminum box (see photos above). Two universal breadboard printed circuit boards were used for the solid state sections, one for the input amp and clip indicator circuitry and the other for the 30VDC power supply. The vacuum tube socket was mounted in the center of the box and the tube circuitry and controls were mounted on the top of the box. The tube circuitry was wired with a point-to-point method and short wires were used to reduce circuit crosstalk. All of the ground connections tie to a single point near one end of the tube socket to reduce ground loop hum.
The 30VDC power supply board's oscillator circuit produces a tone that can be picked up by the sensitive preamplifer input. The board should be located as far away from the preamp circuitry as possible. If the tone is still heard, it can be supressed by placing a grounded metal plate between the supply board and the preamp.
The blue power LED and amber clip LEDs were mounted to shine through the many holes in the used aluminum box. This gives a nice blue glow effect. You may want to mount the LEDs on the front panel.

Alignment

Power the circuit up and verify that the +12V line and +30V line have the correct voltages. Connect a digital voltmeter between ground and the collector of the 2N3906 input transistor. Adjust the 20K bias trimmer so that the collector voltage is around 4.5VDC. This adjustment can be further tuned (by ear) for maximum volume and minimum distortion when the footswitch is set to the clean setting. There is a "sweet spot" for the bias adjustment, the volume will fall off as the bias is adjusted above and below this spot.

Use

Connect a guitar to the circuit's input jack and a jumper cable between the output jack and the external amplifier. Plug the wall-wart supply in. Set the guitar amp's input volume to a fairly low level. Turn the guitar volume control to a fairly high setting and play some loud chords. Adjust the input gain until the yellow clip LED occasionally blinks. The blinking clip LED indicates undesirable distortion on the clean signal. The input gain control may need adjusting if you modify the guitar controls.
Set the Tube Drive 1 and Tube Drive 2 controls to the middle of their range. Set the Mix control to the middle. Step on the footswitch, adjust the Output Level control so that the distortion setting is as loud as the clean setting. When the footswitch is set to distortion, you should hear some nice fuzz sounds while the guitar is played. Adjust the tube drives up or down for the desired distortion sound, the Output Level control may need adjustment as the distortion levels are changed.
The Mix control can be moved between Clean and Distort for the desired signal mix. For a traditional fuzz sound, the control should be set to the full distortion setting. The High Cut switch can be adjusted to lower the high frequency harmonics on the distortion channel. A wide range of distortion sounds, from barely noticeable to highly distorted, can be produced with this box. Some interesting sounds can be found by moving the Tube Drive 1 control up and the Tube Drive 2 control down, or vice-versa.
For a better sounding second-generation tube distortion project, see the all-tube FuzzniKator Tube Distortion/Preamp.



READ MORE - Fuzzy Firebottle Guitar Distortion

Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar DIY

Abstract
In this project you'll learn how to make a piezoelectric pickup for acoustic guitar using inexpensive components. You can then connect your acoustic guitar to an amplifier, and record your own music. If you are interested in electronics and like playing acoustic guitar, this could be the perfect project for you.

Objective
The goal of this project is to make an acoustic guitar pickup using the piezoelectric transducer from a simple electronic buzzer.

Introduction
Back in the day, before any of us had computers at home, we listened to music on vinyl records. The audio signal was recorded in grooves cut into the records. To play the signal back and hear the music, the record was spun on a turntable, and a diamond stylus on the end of the tone arm would ride through the groove. The sides of the groove exerted pressure on the stylus, creating tiny electric currents due to the piezoelectric effect. The pressure created tiny stresses in the diamond crystal, which in turn produced electric currents. A preamplifier in the phono cartridge of the turntable amplified these tiny currents, which were then further amplified by the stereo amplifier so that we could hear the music through speakers.
The piezoelectric effect can also be used in electronic pickup devices for recording acoustic instruments. With a pickup, the vibrations of the instrument are transduced into an electric current, which is then amplified and recorded. Unlike a microphone, with a pickup you will not record extraneous sounds from elsewhere in the room, just the sound of the acoustic instrument in which the pickup is mounted. In this project, you'll learn how to make a piezoelectric pickup for an acoustic guitar, using inexpensive components that you can find at your local Radio Shack store.
There are several different experiments you could try with this project. For example, you could purchase several different piezoelectric elements with different specifications, and compare their performance as pickup devices. You could also compare the performance of your homemade pickup with the performance of a professionally-designed piezoelectric pickup. Or you could build a single pickup and compare the performance of the pickup when it is placed in different locations on the underside of the bridge, or with or without foam.
If you're interested in electronics and like to play acoustic guitar, this could be the perfect project for you.

Terms, Concepts and Questions to Start Background Research
To do this project, you should do research that enables you to understand the following terms and concepts:
  • Piezoelectric effect
  • Parts of a guitar
    • Bridge
    • Soundhole
    • Soundboard
    • Strings
  • Sound
  • Physics of vibrating strings
  • Sound frequencies
  • Hertz (cycles per second)
Questions
  • How does a piezoelectric device transduce mechanical strain into an electric current?
Bibliography
Materials and Equipment
To do this experiment you will need the following materials and equipment:
  • Acoustic guitar
    • Tip: we highly recommend using an inexpensive acoustic guitar for this project, since you'll be gluing the pickup in place, and possibly even drilling a hole for mounting the audio cable jack.
  • Guitar amplifier (to hear the results)
    • Depending on your amplifier, you may also need a preamplifier, since the output of the piezoelectric pickup is low amplitude.
  • Guitar cable (1/4" male at both ends, to connect guitar to amplifier)
  • Piezo buzzer element, with specifications similar to the following:
    • Transducer Type: Piezo-electric
    • Transducer Size: 1.1 in
    • Audio Range: 106 dB
    • Noise Level: less than -111 dB
  • Shielded audio cable, approx. 25 cm length
  • 1/4" audio jack
    • If you don't mind drilling a hole in your guitar, you can mount this on the guitar body.
    • There are also end-pin audio jacks that can be installed in the end pin hole on the guitar. You will probably need to drill this hole larger. End pin jacks are more expensive than regular 1/4 in audio jacks.
    • If you don't want to drill a hole in the guitar, you can also pass the wires from the pickup out through the end pin hole, and attach them to the audio jack outside the guitar. This would be a temporary installation, just for this experiment.
  • Small piece of medium density foam (just a couple square inches)
  • Soldering iron
  • Solder
  • Wire strippers
  • Hot glue gun
  • Hot glue stick
  • Optional: power drill and 3/8 in spade bit for making hole for audio jack.
Experimental Procedure
  1. Do your background research so that you are knowledgeable about the terms, concepts, and questions, above. Making the Pickup
    Note: this procedure is from a webpage by Adam Kumpf (Kumpf, date unknown).
  2. The heart of the pickup is a piezo buzzer element. You can find these for just a couple dollars at your local parts store (Radio Shack). Sometimes the Piezo Buzzer packages don't have that much information on them, but you want to find things as close as possible to the information listed above in the Materials and Equipment section. In other words, they are pretty cheap so go for a good one. Also note that you do not need a fully functional buzzer device, just the piezo element.
  3. A word about Piezo Elements. Piezo elements are made from two conductors separated by a layer of piezo crystals. When a voltage is applied across the crystal layer, the crystals pull on one side and push on the other. This in turn bends the metal conductor layers. When a sinusoidal signal (audio) is applied, the conductors are pushed and pulled very quickly, creating sound waves. The beauty of the Piezo element is that it also works in reverse. If sound waves push and pull on the conductors, an electrical signal is created and can be output to an amplifier or recording device. This is exactly how we will use the Piezo Buzzer element in this project. It will be attached to the inside of the guitar body, and, as the body vibrates, the sound will be turned into an electric signal by the Piezo buzzer element.
  4. Now that you have the Piezo Buzzer, you need to carefully break it open and get out the piezo element. Be careful not to hurt the metal device inside. Bending the element may cause it to break or lose some of its sensitivity.
  5. You are now ready to solder the device together. Strip the ends of the shielded audio cable. On one end connect the signal wire to the center of the Piezo element and the ground/shielding to the metal/brass surface of the piezo element. On the other end of the shielded wire, connect the signal wire to the signal tab on the 1/4 in audio jack and connect the shielding to the ground tab.
  6. Optional: We [the original author, Adam Kumpf] have found that a small piece of medium density foam improves the performance of the pickup over a large number of frequencies. Cut a piece of foam the same size of your piezo element and about 3/8" tall. Place a large drop of hot glue on the back side of the piezo element (where the wires connect) and then press the foam on until the glue cools.
  7. Your piezo pickup device should now be ready to install. You may want to make sure it is working by plugging it into an amp (with a guitar cable) and lightly tapping on it. Here is a picture of the finished device, ready for installation (Kumpf, date unknown):
    homemade piezoelectric pickup
    Installing the Pickup


  8. Mark where the hole will be in the body of the guitar. Unless you are handy with a soldering iron and have an endpin-jack on-hand, do not place your hole in the end of the guitar. This is where the pin that holds the strap is located. There is a block of wood there and the provided jack will not work in this position. I recommend marking the hole about halfway through the curve on the end of the guitar. It is, however, up to you where you choose to put it. Be creative! You will probably want to mark the spot with pencil first, then take the tip of the drill bit and twist on the mark by hand (not in the drill) to make a small indentation in the wood, as seen in Figure 1. Endpin jacks are a stronger and more professional solution, but will also probably double the cost of this project for you.
    mark the hole before drilling
    Figure 1. Mark the hole before drilling the guitar. Use the point of the drill bit to make an indentation in the wood (by hand) so the bit won't slip when you start drilling (Kumpf, date unknown).

  9. Next we must drill the hole. This is the most difficult part of the installation process. It is in your best interest to take the tension off of the strings to get rid of forces that may be pulling on the wood. You may want to practice drilling holes on a scrap piece of wood if available to get a feel for the drill. Using a good sharp 3/8" spade bit, as seen in Figure 2, very slowly (fast drill speed, very little pressure) and carefully drill the hole in the body. Be steady and smooth or you may cause the body of the guitar to splinter around the hole.
    drilling the hole for mounting the pickup
    Figure 2. Drill the hole with light, steady pressure so as not to splinter the wood around the hole (Kumpf, date unknown).

  10. Carefully clean the edges of the hole, shown in Figure 3. Take the washer and nut off of the 1/4" jack. You must now feed the jack into the guitar body and direct it towards the hole you just drilled. Depending on the size of your hand, you may need to take the strings completely off to get your hand in far enough to guide the jack towards the hole. I usually just loosen the strings, (very loose) and squeeze my hand in as far as it will go. It is almost certain that you will not be able to reach the drilled hole. This is okay. Just be patient and keep fishing for it. You may find it helpful to use something such as a paper clip or a pencil to help guide you through the hole. Once it is through, put the washer and nut back onto the jack to hold it in place. Do not overtighten the nut. Make it too loose and it will come off. Make it too tight and you will have a guitar with a crack in it. A little loose is better than too tight! If you are worried about the strength of the jack in the side of the guitar, you can easily make a sheet-metal washer for the inside of the guitar to help support it.
    completed hole for mounting the pickup
    Figure 3. This photo shows the completed hole, after clean-up (Kumpf, date unknown).

  11. You are now going to mount the piezo element. This step is a very important part if you want your guitar to have a nice sound. Be careful with the element. Piezo pickups can be broken if you bend them. Although it may seem odd, your pickup will produce a much better sound if you mount it hanging off of the guitar, 50-50. In other words, half of the element (brass side) is taped to the bridge (or a brace), and the other half is hanging out in mid-air. The best place to mount the piezo element is on the back side of the bridge. (the side towards the endpin) To apply the pickup, take a piece of double-stick tape, just enough to cover half of the element, and place it on the element. You may also want to use hot glue once you have found the best place on the guitar, as this improves the 0.4k–1.0 kHz range of the pickup. A lot of people also use a sticky-putty, available at a local office supply store. The half of the pickup with tape (or glue or putty) will be the part that sticks to wood on the inside of the guitar (see Figure 4). The other half will be hanging off. Try to keep the adhesive (tape/hot glue/putty) as thin as possible as this will help overall performance. It is also important to note that the placement of the piezo element can also be used to boost frequencies from 0.25–3.0 kHz depending on how much of the device hangs in mid-air. Play around with different placements if you want your guitar to have a unique sound. Typically, the closer the pickup is to the bridge, the warmer the sound.
    schematic showing mounting of pickup on the underside of the bridge
    Figure 4. Mount the piezo element to the underside of the bridge, inside the guitar. You may want to experiment with different mounting positions to see how they affect the sound. You may also want to try with and without medium density foam (Kumpf, date unknown).

  12. The hard part of the installation is over. Now for the finishing touches. First, you must secure the loose wire that runs from the pickup to the jack so that it does not flop back-and-forth when someone you the guitar. Go in through the sound-hole and place generous pieces of masking tape to secure the wire. Next you may want to snug the nut on the jack to finalize its placement. Then tighten up the strings and plug it in! That's it. You just made your acoustic guitar into an acoustic/electric!
    completed installation of audio jack
    Figure 5. This photo shows the completed installation of the audio jack (Kumpf, date unknown).




    Source : sciencebuddies.org
READ MORE - Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar DIY

Make Your Own Electric Guitar Pickup

Abstract
If you like playing electric guitar, this could be a cool project for you. Have you ever wondered how an electric guitar works? In this project you'll wind one or more of your own electric guitar pickups and test them out in an inexpensive electric guitar. How will the sound change with the number of turns you use in the coil? Or with the strength of the magnets you use? 

Objective
The goal of this project is to build and test your own electric guitar pickup. How will sound quality vary with the number of wraps used in the coil, or with the strength of the magnets used in the coil?

Introduction
An acoustic guitar has a lightweight, hollow body, with a top that is designed to resonate when the strings vibrate. The large surface area of the guitar top is much more efficient at producing sound, so it effectively amplifies the vibrations of the strings. With an electric guitar, it's a different story. If you play an electric guitar unplugged, you'll still hear sound, but the sound is not nearly as loud as the acoustic guitar. What happens when you plug the electric guitar in to an amplifier? Where does the sound come from? The key is in the pickups, which turn the vibrations of the strings into electric signals.
Electric guitar pickups work on the principle of induction, which was studied by physicist Michael Faraday. A changing magnetic field will cause an electric current to flow in a loop of wire. In a single-coil guitar pickup, there are magnets for each string on the guitar, with their poles oriented perpendicular to the string. All of these magnets are surrounded by a coil of very fine magnet wire containing thousands of wraps. When a steel string on the guitar vibrates, it perturbs the field of the magnet just beneath it. This changing magnetic field induces a current in the coil of wire. With a properly designed pickup, the perturbations in both the magnetic field and the current in the coil are synchronized with the vibration of the string. When the signal from the pickup is amplified, it produces the sound of the electric guitar.
How does the sound produced change if the strength of the magnetic field is changed? What if the number of turns (wraps) in the coil of wire is changed? These are examples of the type of questions you can explore with this project. If you like playing guitar and have an interest in physics or electronics, this could be the perfect project for you.

Terms, Concepts and Questions to Start Background Research
To do this project, you should do research that enables you to understand the following terms and concepts:
  • Induction
  • Electricity and magnetism
Bibliography


Materials and Equipment
To do this experiment you will need the following materials and equipment:
  • Inexpensive electric guitar
  • Guitar amplifier
  • Guitar cable
  • Popsicle sticks
  • #42 AWG or #43 AWG solderable magnet wire
    • A source for magnet wire is Whitmor/Wirenetics, 1-800-822-9473.
      • Their part number for #42 AWG wire is MWRD42SPN062, cost is $0.012/ft or $20.97/lb. Minimum order per pound is 5–6 pound spool. Yield is approximately 50,000 ft/lb.
      • Their part number for #43 AWG wire is MWRD43SPN062, cost is $0.011/ft or $24.77/lb. Minimum order by weight is 5–6 pound spool. Yield is approximately 50,000 ft/lb.
    • For reference, an 8,000-turn pickup will require about 4,000 feet (1,220 m) of wire. For 10,000 turns, you'd need about 5,000 feet (1,525 m) of wire.
    • Note: AWG stands for American Wire Gauge, and refers to the diameter of the wire. The higher the number, the smaller the diameter.
  • Small magnets:
    • Approximately 1/4 in (0.64 cm) diameter, 3/16 in (0.5 cm) tall
    • Can be neodymium, AlNiCo (aluminum nickel cobalt), ceramic.
    • You will need two magnets for each string on your guitar.
    • A good neodymium magnet for this project is part number D43 from K&J Magnetics.
  • Gorilla glue
  • Paraffin wax
  • Beeswax
  • Double boiler
  • Tongs
  • Screwdriver
  • Soldering iron
  • Solder
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • Electrical tape
  • Optional, but recommended: digital or tape recording system so that you can save samples of the guitar played with different pickups for comparison. 

Experimental Procedure

  1. Do your background research so that you are knowledgeable about the terms and concepts above.
  2. If you have a recording system for your guitar (recommended), start by recording the unmodified guitar.
    1. Decide on a set of music that you can play for each test.
    2. At a minimum, your test should have sections of single notes that span the entire musical range of the guitar.
    3. Use the same guitar, amplifier, and recording settings for each test. The only thing that should be changing between tests is the pickup used.
    4. If you don't have a recording system, you'll have to rely on your memory of how the guitar sounds with each different pickup. Listen carefully and take notes right after you play!
  3. The procedure for making the pickup was written by Sam Garfield (Garfield, 2006). The original procedure was designed for a four-string bass. To make a pickup for a six-string guitar, you will need 12 magnets (two for each string) instead of the 8 magnets described below.
  4. Center one of the popsicle sticks over the strings, and mark where each string hits. This will be a guide for where you need to place the center of each magnet. You are now ready to begin construction.
  5. You will need to glue the first four magnets to the Popsicle stick.
    1. This is not as easy as it sounds since all the magnets will just stick together until the glue is set.
    2. The second set of magnets can be temporarily placed on the other side of the stick from the magnets being glued to hold them in place.
      use a second set of magnets to hold the first magnets in place while the glue sets
      Use a second set of magnets to hold the first magnets in place while the glue sets. The photo shows a completed pickup "frame." The "holding" magnets are at the bottom, and are no longer needed at this point.
  • It does not matter if you have the negative or positive pole facing up, as long as you do each one the same.

  • Once you've got your glue dried, take the placeholder magnets off and stick them to the four magnets you just glued.

  • After the glue for the second set of magnets dries, you can hold a second popsicle stick to the top with an extra set of magnets (or lightly glue it in place. You'll remove the top popsicle stick after potting, before installing the pickup in your guitar.

  • Now start wrapping the wire.
    1. Leave a foot or two sticking out before you start wrapping. This is important, because you need to connect your electronics to two leads.
    2. We found it helpful to stick the whole thing to the refrigerator while you wrap it. Get comfortable because you’re going to be there a while. Standard single coil pickups in guitars have thousands of turns (typically 8 to 10 thousand)!
    3. Keep wrapping until it gets barely big enough to fit inside the plastic of your old pickup (it isn't necessary to have an enclosure—it just looks nice). This will be several thousands of wraps, but we didn’t really count. It should look about like the completed picture here.
    4. Tip: if the wire breaks while you are wrapping you will need to start over (or carefully splice the wire), so don’t break the wire! Since the wire is so thin, it is also very fragile.
    5. Another experiment you can do is to try multiple pickups with different numbers of turns. In general, more windings = hotter output. One thing to look out for with more windings is that the high frequencies may start to get cut off.
    6. Remember to count your turns!

  • Potting: the completed pickup needs to be "potted" in wax before using. The wax keeps the turn of the coil in place.
    1. Be careful with this step! Paraffin wax is flammable, and melted wax is hot enough to burn your skin.
    2. Use a double boiler to melt enough paraffin wax to completely cover the pickup.
    3. Some people recommend a mix of 80% paraffin wax and 20% beeswax. Beeswax melts at a higher temperature than paraffin wax, which will make the potting more stable in high-temperature environments later.
    4. Leave the pickup in the liquid wax for a minute, and then take it out with tongs. Try to hold it near the edge so that the wax completely covers the coil.
    5. Some people recommend placing it on a plate and putting it in the refrigerator to harden the wax more quickly.
    6. The protruding ends of the lower popsicle stick can be trimmed off, and the top popsicle stick can be carefully removed.

  • Connect the pickup to your guitar.
    1. You'll need to take off the pickguard in order to remove the existing pickup and install your homemade one(s). In order to take off the pickguard, you'll need to slacken and then remove the strings.
    2. Find the wires connecting the existing pickup to the guitar, and clip them at an accessible point.
    3. Remove the existing pickup.
    4. Strip the ends of the wires inside the guitar.
    5. Carefully strip the ends of the two leads of magnet wire from your coil. You can use your fingernail or carefully scrape with a utility knife. Use little pressure and be careful not to nick the wire.
    6. Install the homemade pickup in place of the previous one. The magnets should line up beneath the strings when everything is reassembled.
    7. Solder each lead from the coil to one of the stripped ends of the wires inside the guitar.
    8. Make sure the connection is solid, then cover the solder joint with electrical tape.
    9. Replace the pickguard and restring the guitar, then you'll be ready to try out your new pickup.

  • Make a test recording to compare the new pickup to the previous one(s). How does the new pickup affect the sound quality? 


  • souceh :  sciencebuddies.org
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    Installation of humbucker Pickups into a Fender Stratocaster

    This page came about as an exercise for me to get an understanding of what can be acomplished by changing the pickups and a guitars wiring. I was trying to get away from the tinny twang of my standard strat and have done that... and more ! I now have three humbucking double coil pickups with switches so I can "split" the coils by grounding out one side and get a single coil sound. Also a big improvement is moving a tone control from the middle pickup to the bridge. The standard Strat does not have any tone control in the bridge position (which is too bright already). I have the tone controls in the bridge and neck positions and leave the middle without . I've tried wiring 2 pickups to one tone control but volume is effected between switch positions. I have also tried separate capacitors, but prefer one capacitor for both tone controls. Another mod I like is a bridge switch which engages the bridge pickup in any position. The web site links below have more detail and you should read them also before you start. The 500k ohm push/pull pots  were distributed by All Parts #EP 286. ph. 281-391-0637
       Many thanks to Seymour Duncan and Rodney Gene for their expertise and great pickups, and John S. Atchley for his great website and all responding to the guitar newsgroups ! ( Links at bottom of page). 
     
    Fender Stratocaster- a very versitile guitar with modifications. Seymour Duncan Little 59ers. Les Paul sound in single pickups space.
    Original Strat pickups and 250k ohm pots and new 500k ohm push/pull pot. 500k ohm push/pull pot.- a pot and switch combined.
    Add - A - Bridge Mod. Switch the bridge on in any selctor position ! Push/Pull pots raised - change humbucking to single coil sound.
    Hold strings from guitar with a rag. Solder iron and .032 rosin core solder.
     
    Pickguard positioned for working. .022uf capacitor grounded to side of tone pot.
     
    Starting to solder a wire to outside of pot case. Solder applied after wire heated.
    Volume pot shown mounted too high. Adjusting height nut on volume pot.
     
    Side view of pick guard. Correct Height- few threads over nut when tight.
     
    Common ground. A globby mess of solder and wires. A quick fix if you tighten a screww too much and lose its grip.
     
    Pick guard screws at bridge are longer. Finished Mod.... !   Adjusting pickup height.

    Guitar Wiring R1=500k, R2 & R3=250k DPDT push/pull audio taper. Tone capacitor= .033uF. Diagram by Steve Glass.

     Thank You Steve Glass for this detailed wiring diagram ! See Seymour Duncan's site for more diagrams.... Jim

    Strat Original Potentiometers (pot=vol. and tone controls) were 250k-ohm. I purchased 250k ohm push/pull DPDT pots which include a DPDT Push/Pull switch... I later changed the vol. R1 to 500k as the sound was a little dark.. the 500k brightened things up... and a 1 Meg pot for R1 would be brighter still. R1 push/pull splits the bridge and neck pickups for non-humbucking single coil sound. R2 splits the middle pickup. R3 engages the bridge p/u in any selector switch position (neck and bridge or all three p/u's at once !). The tone capacitor is .033uF   I won't try to explain much about the Strats 5-way selector swith. There are two sides separated by an electrical insulator. There is a common point and only three other terminals on each side of the switch. The 2 and #4 position are selected when metal on the rotary switch bridges 2 terminals. It will make sense when you get a look at it.
    The wires here only describe electrical connections and how the circuits look electricaly. Each pickup has a shielded cable that carry the wires  and keeps things tidy.
      The red and white wires (A- and B+) are normally connected together from each pickup in humbucking mode and insulated. In this circuit a jumper is brought to R-1 from the neck and bridge pickups. When the Potetiometer switch is pulled the jumpers are grounded shorting out one of the two coils on both the bridge and neck pickups.... This is known as splitting. These should have similar characteristics to a Strats single coil configuration.
    R3 has aPush/pull pot configured to connect the bridge pickup at any of the 5-way switches positions. This adds the ability to have both the Neck and Bridge pickup active at the same time. (Telecaster ?, Les Paul ?) .
    The Tone controls have been moved to the bridge and neck and function in the #2 and #4 positions also. There is no tone control in this circuit for the center position #3 with the middle pickup used alone. I am going to leave this for a clean signal and may return to a single coil middle pickup If this proves to be too bright I could work with pickup height to get the desired output.
     The Little '59ers By Seymour Duncan have a wonderful depth of tonality and a great improvement in sound. I have got away from the bright treble single coil sound and hear more overtones , musical color and depth. The '59 replicate the 1959 Les Paul patented pickups. Todays Les Pauls are much hotter- higher output than the warmer sound in 1959. When my Zoom GFX 707 guitar effects processor is used the sound can be a little too thick...
    Pickup height ? Press the strings down on the last fret and measure the distance from the string to the pickups pole pieces. You might start a 1/16 at the bridge and 1/8" at the neck and bring things lower if too hot or bright. Some use a nickle or a drill bit or a nail as a feeler guage.The fender manual says at the low E string correct height is .024" for each pickup and .020" for the high E string. The Little 59er has pots which also individualy adjust if one string is louder than another.
    Note: This information is provided for Your information. You should take your guitar to a reputable guitar shop if you are not comfortable with using a solder iron. Modifications to your guitar may void its warranty.

    source : http://www.christianmusicweb.com/Guitar_wiring.html
    READ MORE - Installation of humbucker Pickups into a Fender Stratocaster

     
     
     

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